Gunther Steinmetz, Riesling Trocken Wiltinger Rosenberg "Alte Reben", 2021 LWT3 Its heavy clay soils over

Its heavy clay soils over sandstone contain a distinctive iron pan 12 inches below the surface that imparts unique minerality

so it tastes like a baby Meursault at a fraction of the cost

in the hands of a serious young vigneron

and power—everything you'd expect from this legendary estate

It's the most approachable of the three Grand Crus but still demands respect—this is not a wine to hurry through

Gunther Steinmetz, Riesling Trocken Wiltinger Rosenberg "Alte Reben", 2021 LWT3 Its heavy clay soils overHere Stefan Steinmetz strays from his Middle Mosel home base to the cooler, higher strung Saar, and the change of address shows. The Wiltinger Rosenberg is a grey slate slope in Wiltingen, and this old vine ("Alte Reben") cuvee is bottled bone dry, with several months in oak adding a whisper of texture to the Saar's steely core. Expect a leaner, more crystalline kind of Riesling than his Mosel bottlings: taut, high acid, and unapologetically dry. An