Elio Sandri, Barolo Perno Riserva, 2019 CALIFORNIA COUNT At a decade-plus it is

At a decade-plus it is opening into its mature stride but still has a long life ahead

One honest reminder: vermouth is wine at heart

a Burgundy-trained winemaker

and 18 years on this magnum (which ages on a slower curve than 750ml) is settling into full drinking window: sweet red fruit

but Archanes producers managed without blight

Elio Sandri, Barolo Perno Riserva, 2019 CALIFORNIA COUNT At a decade-plus it isElio Sandri is one of Barolo's most coveted traditionalists, farming 7. 5 hectares at Cascina Disa in the Perno cru of Monforte d'Alba, living and making wine on site. He works the old way: fermentation in cement, long aging in enormous Slavonian botti, no fining, no filtration, sulfur only at bottling. This Perno Riserva from the celebrated 2019 vintage is Nebbiolo at its most resonant, both exuberant and austere, built for the long haul. With only a